The program for scanning the film. How to scan film negatives by an ordinary scanner. Postpost: Perfect Result

Hello everyone, sometimes came across that it was necessary to either quickly scan the document, or put a free program in the office to scan documents and now I will show which programs, I have in stock. These programs are suitable for scanners: Canon, Epson, HP, Xerox and many others.

1. Scanlite.

SAMI famous program To scan documents, it is very easy to use and easy to understand.

What is in the program:

• The first is the name of the document that will be scanned.
• The second is the path where the file will be scanned.
• The third is the scan button itself.

Attention! The minus of this program is that it is necessary to rename the file each time (in paragraph one), otherwise the program will restart the previous one.

Here you can choose the skin program, pDF format (Document) or JPG (picture), Color or black and white image and quality. I think everything is clear here.

2. WinScan2pdf.

This program is very simple. And as I understand it is the most popular. But minus it is that she can scan in PDF only, and the corresponding name gave her the author.

Select from which device to scan, you can put a tick for scanning multiple pages.

Well, the button to scan and exit the program.

3. Scanner

And the latest free program for scanning documents has more settings.

When starting, if a warning appears, do not be afraid.

Everything is described here in actions.

1. Select from which device to scan and scan scan (right there following), to scan the following image.

2. Here you can adjust the image slightly, add brightness or contrast.

3. In the end, you can print the image, save in JPG or BMP, well, or open view in order to view the result.

Please pay attention to the tick fill if it is put then the image will be on the entire sheet A4.

Well, that's all, I use such tools in everyday life. Of course there may be better programBut they are paid and weigh more. These free programs For scanning Completely cope with their task.

Bonus:

And some technologies)

In general, the idea to scan and streamline old photos, of course, was launched for a long time, on such a scanning of old photographic films (more than a hundred) and photographs (thousands) to decide not easy. In general, since childhood, I wanted to have a digitized old photos of Praprabauchew-great-grandfathers, and finally, after 20, she decided to encourage this business.

Scanner

The first thing was the question - naturally scanner. At one time, 7 years ago, he tried to digitize the negatives and decided to stock the film scanner. No money was not particularly, chose that cheaper, they were Miktotek Filmscan 35.


Compared to the scan monsters, he cost a penny, but the result issued awesome. I used SilverFast to it as the most advanced software at the time (maybe now). I don't know why, but sometimes, at different passages, this miracle was squeezed, then the green photo, it was all overlapped, it was unpredictable and very sad, it was necessary to corrupt 10-15 minutes over each sneress, straightening the histogram and carrying out other dances with tambourine. In general, this process was bought off my hunt to scan the films for several years, the scanner so somewhere and lying around.

Now, considering everything for and against, the following was decided.
There were several moments that it was necessary to take into account:

• scan for the most part I will not be, but my parents, the benefit has time now
• scan not only films, but also photos
• need to scan a lot
• no fabulous budget

In addition to all the same meant, I understood that now the film is no longer a relevant carrier, and therefore it is most likely to scan it will be only once, the truth can take a lot of time.

So, film scanners disappeared for two reasons:
First, the previous experience has shown that it is not to buy such an ungregate for cheaply, and the fact that I will not carry such hell for the second time.
Secondly, to buy a separate scanner for pictures and separately for the film - also somehow expensive and inappropriate.
Moreover, I said to myself, if it gets good - I will take it into a professional laboratory, you can go on a dozen personnel.

Looking at what is on sale from what is able to scan except paper is also a film, it turned out that the choice is small: or again the transcendental prices, or the entire para-triple options. Break all working immediately after the holiday stores it turned out that there are the following acceptable options:

• Epson Perfection V330 Photo (A4, 4800 x 9600 DPI, USB 2.0, CCD, Film Adapter)
• Epson Perfection V370, Photo (A4, 4800x9600 t / d, CCD, USB 2.0)
• Canon Canoscan Lide 700F (A4 9600x9600DPI 48bit CIS USB2.0 Slide Adapter)
• Canon Canoscan 5600F (A4 4800x9600DPI 48bit USB2.0 Slide Adapter)

The rest was either too expensive, from 10,000, or, on the contrary, nothing skillfully. Unfortunately, Canoscan 5600F disappeared due to lack of this moment On sale, although the description is very good. The rest were, according to reviews, about the same, but the decisive role was played by the fact that for Epson "there were drivers for Linux, and since I would like to work not only under Windows, I finally won Epson Perfection V330 photo. Nowhere to learn The same 330 model differs from 370, but since the linux drivers were mentioned only for 330, he stopped on it, so to speak, "to avoid".

Unfortunately, the Linux still did not have time to try yet, but in Windows Softe liked the defect removal function - on black and white old photos, it works with a bang. But with it, too, it is necessary to be careful - sometimes it may be for the defect to count something worthwhile.

In responses about the scanner, places mentioned the problem with the appearance of bands when scanning films - but I have not yet observed. Nevertheless, in my opinion, this is something useful about this, found in one of the reviews on Yandex Market: "Two years later, I can report on the result of the investigation: in the frame of the scanner there is a calibration window where white balance is installed. If dust falls there - "broken pixels" are obtained, which, when the carriage runs, they give stripes. This is most likely a constructive defect of the new LED backlight (but who is aware of this ...). So the Lord, if you have such a scanner,
Remove dust. "

What permission to scan - this question was not the last. The scanner issues a maximum of 4800x9600, but when trying to set such a 9x13cm photo scan, the system has become a matter of scales, it was necessary to reduce.

Criterion for selecting permission simple: If we assume that you can print with a standard 300dpi resolution, then to get the same image, you need to have a minimum of 300dpi. Given that the photo is old, then there is no sense to overestimate this figure - anyway, the physical permission will not allow to get quality from nothing. Again, it is unlikely that someone will once want to print a poster with the image of the great-grandfather on A1 format or even A4. If anyone writes the book - it is unlikely that there will be a picture more than a sheet. In general, I decided that for quite old, two-time excess will come down, for better and later - three-time, i.e. 600dpi and 900dpi, respectively. Next, I chose what was closest to the fact that it was sorted by software that went with a scanner.

For negatives, I decided to use a maximum - not in vain I bought with such a resolution ... most likely it is a bust of 4800x4800dpi, but you can always cut down, but the main thing is that then you no longer have to retell with other parameters and you can sleep well.

Scans are preserved, naturally, in no case in JPEG, in order to avoid losses for compression. All - only TIFF. It seems, of course, the place eats more, but it is to scan - and then there are no problems: what I want, then I do. I also did not come to this immediately, but the practice shows that if you save now - then I will regret and return to this issue, and so, if everything is a maximum of the maximum, then there is nothing to regret what.

Cataloging

Naturally, after digitization, it is necessary to solve all this case. The main task was to sign the right-pra-relatives, for I wanted to keep the family history for the future, and no one would ever figure out without commenting comments.

An option to immediately process pictures and lay out on the site for two reasons: first, it is necessary to process everything and immediately, and this time, and the parents do not understand anything in this; Secondly, technology is changing, and who would know how in a couple of dozen years the site will look like, if at all it will somehow exist.

The use of a smart catalog program program was not suitable for the same significant reason - there is no guarantee that in a few decades this software will be alive and no one will understand what, where and how stored in its smart unique format.

The decision was to store a description in the usual text file with the same name as the photo - the text he and in Africa the text will surely read anyone after deciments, even if you think about some kind of super-unicode, yet it is much more reliable than special software. But as a programmer, I looked at this option with horror - well, I'm ugly and that's it. Yes, and uncomfortable in the process of work.

Parents said that they wanted at all in Word - here's a photo, here's a signature - and everything is clear. From such a proposal, the hair stood on end, for again - today there is a Word - there is no time.

Another option is to store signatures in EXIF. It was embarrassed by the fact that during the processing of pictures, many EXIF \u200b\u200bsoftware simply ignore, as a result, the precious signatures may be irrelevant.

In general, after analyzing the whole situation, I decided to: Use a photo, sign it in the form of an EXIF \u200b\u200band then all these pictures with signatures do read-only, so there was no temptation to change something, and thus we guarantee the safety of information. I want to change - do a copy - and go ahead. Well, backups of course. And in general, in the end, we and programmers, in order to draw a small scriptor, so that the entire exif can be exported to the text file, "to avoid" :)

To work with EXIF \u200b\u200bin Linux there are a bunch of tools command linebut it is unacceptable for convenient work With a lot of pictures. However, that's what is: EXIF, EXIFTOOL, EXIV2, google, can be found more detailed information. Next, I used exiftool for batch processing, but about it later.

We look at what is from the GUI. By studying that the OpenSource community offers us, somehow stopped at Digikam - "Digikam IS An Advanced Digital Photo Management Application for Linux, Windows, and Mac-OSX", as they are written on the site.
I decided to edit in Gimp, GNU Image Manipulation Program, analogue photoshop, but OpenSource. Therefore, the ability to edit photos for cataloging software is not required separately, but in the cataloging itself several things bribed.

First, Digikam edits EXIF, which I need.

Secondly, all photos immediately on the screen, we subscribe in the window next and immediately go to the next - quickly, simple and convenient.

Thirdly, it was noticed that in the EXIF \u200b\u200bitself there are several similar tags for commenting: Comment, Usercomment, ImageCommentSo, Digikam writes immediately into everything, so the likelihood that this information will read another software, is quite large.

In addition, reading reviews, I was pleased with the idea that in addition to just EXIF \u200b\u200bSoftinka is able to conduct a catalog, nothing to copy anywhere, unlike many others, but simply treating everything in place. It was a huge plus - I did not seek this opportunity initially, but it turned out to be like Nelza by the way. And what I liked - except for the enhancing information in EXIF, she writes it to his base and then the photo is convenient to sort and search for tags, tags, descriptions, etc. And even if at some point the software will disappear and the base is also a copy of the data will remain in EXIF, which, in fact, I need.

Some interesting cataloging thoughts are described in the already mentioned article. So, all or almost all of these data can also be kept in EXIF \u200b\u200band, if necessary, export to any format, as it will be convenient.
An additional plus Digikam is that it is possible to choose any photo as an album cover, and I liked the idea as a cover photo of the most paper album, for which thanks to the author.

Another non-obvious moment with which I encountered when working with Digikam: If there is no right to write to a photo file, then Softina silently writes only to his base, in no way giving it to understand that there are problems. I tried to figure out for a long time, why there is a signature in the prog, but in the file - no, especially since the "Save in the file" option is installed in the settings. So, have this in mind - check the permissions, and then you can firmly.

Lay out on site

So, the main tasks are solved - scanning and cataloging. Now it's time to boast before relatives, to show familiar photos. Naturally, by laying out the photo on the site. Not so long ago, I already did a software for this case: folded the right photos in
Catalog, launched - and ready, made album. I wrote about this on Habré last time. Now, using Digikam, I decided that you can marry a photo directly in EXIF-tags, it is necessary to put it in the photo album or not, because when scanning there were all sorts of pictures that are not worth uploading to the site. Yes, and comments can now be taken from EXIF.

It seems that everything is fine, but not very.

On the site everything is processed in PHP, and there is, as it seemed to me, a wonderful function for working with EXIF, read_exif_data (), but as practice has shown, this unpleunction shows only a part of the data, absolutely silent about the rest. I went around everything that could - and the dream of a light life was sunk in the fly, I had to pull out EXIF \u200b\u200bfrom files at the album generation stage, the benefit of the command line tools take place.

As a result, I rewrote the script, remembering a stinging commentary on my previous article "The PHP file generator on Perl ... Monsieur knows a lot about ...", laughed to himself, that it was still right that I didn't get completely on PHP - so she would put it Now the leg, and so a couple of minutes - and the problem is solved.

So, when processing a photo in Digikam, we mark the photo flag (it is called Picklabel). The checkbox is written to the file in EXIF. When processing all files from the catalog - pull out the checkbox using Exiftool:

$ flagpicklabel \u003d `exiftool -b -picklabel" $ fname_in "`;

Well, further depending on the checkbox - if it is worth it processing, if not, we skip. Everything is set in the command line, in order to be comfortable. In fact, it is possible to process a lot of things here, it is already tasteful and the color of whom you need.

Link to sources, if suddenly someone needs to look carefully or even apply: photo_album-r143.tar.gz. How to use - mentioned in the previous article, I will not repeat.

Thank you for your attention, and if anyone came in handy - then I'm immensely glad.
Criticism is welcome.

Upd.: So I accidentally found on Habré - I am surprised how I did not notice before. Let it be here until heap.

Tags:

• photo Archive
• cataloging photo
• scanning
• Digikam
• Exif
• exiftool

The digitization of photoplacks at home is not a myth, but is quite normal phenomenon. From the text below you will learn about two simple and budget ways of self-digitization of photos. In both cases, the "Photomaster" will be required. In this program, you can transfer the negative to the positive, and improve the quality of the pictures. Download the distribution from our site right now, then you can easily solve these tasks:

Method First: Film Scanning

Special mini-scanners are best suited for film digitization: Konica Minolta Dimage Scan Dual IV, ESPADA QPIX MDFC-1400, etc. However, there is no need to spend money on the purchase of such devices: an ordinary scanner is suitable for work. In addition, in modern models, a special compartment is often provided for filing a film. For example, it can be found in Canon Canoscan 9000F Mark II, Epson Perfection V600 photo and in other scanners.

With such an adaptation, the principle of digitization becomes simple: you need to fix the film in the holder and scan it. Then save the resulting negatives on the PC and go to post-processing.

The method of the second: "Revision" of negatives

Not all at home or in the office there is a scanner. This means that the first way does not fit. But even then you should not throw attempts, collect films in a bag and clean up to the storage room until better times. They can still be digitized at home. The second is the easiest way - this is a revision of negatives. You will need:

• camera.

You can use both the camera and the camera on the smartphone. Be sure to disconnect the flash in advance and set the maximum resolution in the settings.

• illumination.

Its role can perform table lamp, flashlight or even the laptop screen, if you set in the settings for it maximum brightness. It is also desirable to open the "Notepad" screen or a blank sheet in Paint.

• film fixing device.

Come up with how to fix the film opposite the light source. Otherwise, it will be twisted during shooting, the photo will be lubricated. The device for fixing the film can be built of girlfriend. For example, you can take a small sheet of cardboard or tight paper and cut in the center of the size of 35x35. In two centimeters from it to the left and on the right, do two extrem. In it, you can push the film, then it will not roll and bend. You can quickly and easily make a good frame.

So that the design is stable, take two folds along the edges of the sheet. Secure the resulting "legs" stapler or scotch. Now you can install a film opposite the monitor screen or over the lamp and sort out how to digitize the film at home.

Place the items in the following order: light source, photo-filled design, camera. The camera or smartphone is extremely preferably pre-set on a tripod or stack of books. If you take off your hands, the photos can be blurred. Take a picture of all the necessary frames, and then throw them into a PC.

Postpost: Perfect Result

Now you need. In this program you can turn the resulting negatives into normal pictures and, if necessary, improve their quality, remove small defects and much more.

Run the editor and open any of the photos. Go to the "Tools" section and select the "Curves" tool. Change the RGB position of the curve: the bottom edge move up, and the top - down. All light shades will instantly turn into dark, and light - in dark tones.

If necessary, you can adjust the brightness of the photo. Create an additional point (or several) on the line and pull it down or up. Follow the result in the preview window.

If the edges of the photo look not very neat, then doincate them. Here you will help the Function "Crop". You can manually designate the boundaries of cropping or use the proposed proportions proposed in the program. With their help, you can easily and quickly prepare a photo for VKontakte post or to publication on any other site.

Sometimes various defects are present on the films: burnout, stains, scratches or holes. If the video tape or a film is digitized with such disadvantages problematic, then the situation is different with the photofill. Digitization is the only chance to save the old personnel life.

In the photo editor, you can easily "patch" holes, and in general improve the quality of the source. To get rid of scratches and stains, activate the restoring brush. Adjust its size and decisive on the right pane and click on the problem site. A moment - and there is no more defect.

Now you know how to dig up old film films at home. Snapshots can be saved on the computer or immediately print. Download the "Photomaster" program and give new life Personnel from the film already today!

Digitized his photo archive (about 3000 frames). I am satisfied with the purchase. Do you need you, decide for yourself. Samples of digitized frames and description - under the cut.
I purchased my first digital camera in 1994. By that time, a considerable number of photographs accumulated, the prints from which were made and placed in photo albums. A clear idea why I did not have to keep old photographs, and periodically at the next general cleaning over them hung the nonilyuruorous threat to be discharged. When I met Chinese online stores, I drew attention to the so-called photographic scanners, and in fact the device for their digitization. But the reviews about the quality of their work were unflattering, so they did not dare to buy them. And so by chance on the Amazon website, I was on my eyes the next such scanner C to the inapplicability of a low price - about $ 35. Feedback on the same site about his work was quite good. On the Amazon delivery to Ukraine is either not at all, or it costs it expensive and I began to look for this product somewhere else. And found the site site looked very suspicious. Judge yourself - the site is from the family, no contact information, even email. You can write it only through the form on the site. No reviews of buyers. It is not clear what country is the seller. I found on the network that the site is registered on the domain name recorder. And then excavated that the seller himself is located in Hong Kong. The only soothing moment was paid through PayPal. That is, the risk is small. And I decided. After payment, 5 days passed, and the status of my purchase, as it was and remained - paid. I wrote to them through the site, and received the answer that my parcel was already sent for 2 days, the track number was provided.

Delivery occupied as usual - about 3 weeks. Packaging - good.



Inside the package is the scanner itself


Holder for 35 mm film

Holder for slides


Software disk


and brush for cleaning device lenses


The disc automatically starts and proposes to install the imageimpression program, with which the digitization itself is performed. I used it under Windows XP.
The program has a Russian interface. The result can be saved in tIFF formats or JPG, and for the latter there are several gradations of the degree of compression.
The declared resolution of 1800 DPI. 3600 DPI is an interpolation.


Actually, digitization occurs as follows. Fragment of the film (up to 6 frames) is placed in the holder, and then all this is inserted into the side opening of the device.






The program analyzes the color and brightness of the frame and exhibits in its understanding. optimal settings. Nic manual settings not.


Click the mouse over the "Capture" button and move the holder to the next frame.
Examples of digitized frames.

Quality as you can see is so-so. To view on the monitor screen, it is suitable for printing - it is unlikely.
However, I am pleased with the purchase. She fully justified my expectations. It is impossible to require anything else from the device of this class. She decided to me the task - digitized the old photo archive. Given that he was filmed mainly on the soap, that the films were scratched places, better quality I was not particularly and not necessary.
By the way, in the programmingimpression program there are two useful single-button enhancements. One of which visually improves the lighting, and the second is cleaned the noise.

I relate to the pluses of the device:
-price
- Skore work. I have it 3 frame per minute.

By minus:
- Lack of manual digitization settings.
- Comprehensive fixture for scanning of an uncut film.

You have to cut 6 frames. I have the overwhelming majority of the films were already cut into photolaba. The rest I adapted to cut with the help of a fitted "adaptation" yourself, which I donated with you. Pick up the book of the appropriate size so that the page's height is approximately 6 frames of the film. Then insert the film between the pages and cut. Now it is not necessary to count on 6 frames, and the cut fragments will gently lie between the pages of the book.

Characteristics of the device declared by the seller:

Matrix: 1/3.2 "inches 5.15 megapixel CMOS
Optics: Fix Focus Lens F / NO \u003d 2.8 / F \u003d 4.76mm
Color balance: automatic
Brightness: Automat
Rare): 1800dpi 2592 x 1728 Pixels (3: 2)
Interface: USB 2.0
Food: from USB port
Light source: 3 LEDs
Operating systems: Support Microsoft Windows. XP / Vista / Windows 7 / MAC10.5 ABOVE
Dimensions: 8.1x10.6x10 cm