the main › Interesting › Alteration of the desk lamp on the LED with his own hands. How to make a domestic lamp (ceiling) at home. How to remake the base lamps of daylight into LED

Alteration of the desk lamp on the LED with his own hands. How to make a domestic lamp (ceiling) at home. How to remake the base lamps of daylight into LED

The transition to LED lamps gives a tangible economy of electricity consumption. On how to independently remake the usual desktop lamp in LED, the author of Oleg Mikhailov says.

At home, I have long equipped with homemade LEDs all the lighting devices, and only in the office there remained a single lamp with a compact fluorescent lamp on the desktop. Since the lamp was used rather intensively, the lamps for it with a G23 base with a capacity of 11 W had to be changed in between once every year and a half, despite the respected manufacturer's company OSRAM. In addition, for six months before burning, the lamp began to wink with the frequency of the network, which was terribly tired. The lamp turned on not immediately, but with a delay required for the starter warming up (as well as the usual fluorescent tube), which is located in the base of the lamp. Another deficiencies of my lamp should be noted too heavy a throttle plot, which was constantly falling out of the Euroreseet and, besides, herself was the consumer of electricity. In general, when once again approached the time to change the lamp, I thought about the alteration of the lamp on the LED.

Disassembled the device is very simple: only three coils had to turn away. The ceiling turned out to be enough space in order to place a driver and radiator with LEDs. Considering that the power of the LED lamp in 6 W is enough to illuminate the workplace, I began to pick up components.

I did not find drivers for 6 monovatte LEDs, so I had to use a driver for two-time LEDs and, accordingly, three tripombed LEDs (two-spending LEDs do not exist). They will work in a lightweight mode - bivatable (at the same time they will warm up less), the light stream will be 200-220 lm per diode. Connection diagram is shown in the figure.

For the cooling of three LEDs operating in two-time mode, a radiator is required with an area of \u200b\u200bminimum 180 cm2 (30 cm2 to the heat of 1 W heat). For this purpose, I chose the HS 172-30 radiator with dimensions of 150 * 30 x 13 mm. The area of \u200b\u200bits surface is 310 cm2, which is almost 2 times higher than the minimum permissible. On the radiator, the STAR radiator plate attachment points and the radiator mounting to the light-reflector body of the lamp, after which the two holes 0 2.5 mm and six 0 mM were drilled on the drilling machine at these points, and then they cut the thread M3 and M2 in them, 5, respectively.

To accommodate the driver, the "native" cartridge G23, which had a boric type one of the nods intended for connecting the lamp. As a result, it was not necessary to take care of the isolated drivers from the radiator and the reflector.

The radiator installed in the ceiling and secured with two m3 screws through the holes drilled in the reflector.

Unfortunately, the thermocons ended with me. Therefore, the LEDs soldered on the STAR fee using the KPT-8 thermal paste (but it did not have to wait until the thermocons dry). Boards with LEDs fixed on the radiator screws M2.5 also through the thermal paste.

Next, reappeared the LEDs by successively with a MHTF with a cross section of 0.12 mm2 and swept the output wires of the drivers to the light-emitting module with respect to the polarity. Put the driver with the driver in place and swept the input wires to the "native" switch. All compounds have hydrated the shrink tube. Then closed the cover of the plaffone and, having sighing with relief, cut off the toned plug-dams-el. In exchange, I put an ordinary two-pole plug.

The trial switching on the lamp showed that I was in vain feared for the transition of the LED - the board, where the thermal paste was used instead of the thermal stake: the temperature regime after the hour of operation was normal. Measurements carried out on a negative output of the LED (the point most susceptible to heating) and at the point of contact of the radiator with the board. Alteration of the lamp completed.

I want to note that in the work they were used to maximize the "native" details of the lamp, purchased - for a penny! And the alteration ran away for several hours. And this lamp will also be my grandchildren.

Economical effect

The power of the lamp as a result of the alteration decreased from 11 to 6 W, that is, now the lamp consumes electricity almost two less times. And if we take into account the reactive component of electricity consumption by the throttle of the old lamp, the economic effect will be much more weighty. The luminous flow at the same time even grew slightly and is 600-660 lm, which is enough to illuminate the workplace.

Accessories

HG-2234 driver with characteristics: u at 2 90-240 VAC; U no \u003d 6-12vdc; l \u003d 460-500 mA; Dimensions - 25 x 17 x 17 mm.
Three LEDs 3HPD-3 (I norms / max \u003d 700/1 000 mA; U pr. \u003d 2.9-3.6 V; F V \u003d 250 - 270 lm at a nominal current; 201/2 \u003d 120 degrees; T \u003d 3 060 K; Chip 45 x 45 MIL).
Three STAR Ø 20 mm radiator plates and 1.6 mm thick.
HS 172-30 radiator with dimensions 150 x 30 x 13 mm.

4. The HS 172-30 radiator is quite suitable for cooling three LEDs.
5. Competent radiator markup.
6. M2.5 holes - for mounting STAR, hole M3 - for mounting the radiator to the reflector.

7. Part of the cartridge is elevated by the borders ...
8. ... To install the driver here.
9. The radiator was freely fit on the reflector of the ceiling.

10. Boards are installed.
11. The decay of all elements of the light-emitting module was carried out by the MGTF wire.
12. The case remains for small - put the lid in place and change the plug.

If the old Soviet lamp with fluorescent lamps of daylight type LB-40, LB-80 has failed, or you are tired of changing the starter in it, dispose of the lamps themselves (and just throw them into the trash can not be possible), then it can easily Redo in LED.

The most important thing is that in luminescent and LED lamps the same socles - G13. No modernization of the housing, in contrast to other types of pin contacts, will not be required.

G- Indicates that pins are used as contacts

13 is the distance in millimeters between these pins

Advantages of alteration

At the same time you will receive:

Large light

Lower losses (almost half of the useful energy in fluorescent lamps can be lost in the choke)

Lack of vibration and other rattling sound from ballast choke

True, in more modern models, an electronic ballast is already used. They rose in them (90% or more), noise disappeared, but energy consumption and light stream remained at the same level.

For example, new models of such LGOs and Lavo are often used for ArmStrong ceilings. Here is an approximate comparison of their effectiveness:

Another advantage of LED - there are models designed for supply voltage from 85V to 265V. For luminescent you need 220V or close to it.

For LED such, even if the voltage on the network you have a weak or overestimated, they will start and shine without complaints.

Electromagnetic lamps

What should I pay attention to when the alteration of simple fluorescent lamps in LED? First of all, on its design.

If you have a simple lamp of the old Soviet sample with starters and ordinary (non-electronic PRA) choke, it is actually nothing to be upgraded.

Just pull out the starter, pick up under overall size A new LED lamp, insert it into the housing and enjoy brighter and economical lighting.

If the starter from the schema is not removed, then when replacing the LB lamp to LED, you can create a short circuit.

The throttle is not necessarily dismantled. In LED, the current consumed will be within 0.12a-0.16a, and the ballast has a working current in such old lamps 0.37A-0.43a, depending on the power. In fact, it will perform the role of an ordinary jumper.

After all alterations, the lamp you remain the same. The ceiling does not need to change the mount, and the burnt lamps do not have to utilize and look for special containers for them.

For such lamps, individual drivers and power supplies are not needed, as they are already embedded inside the case.

The main thing is to remember the main feature - in LED, two pin contacts on the base are rigidly interconnected.

And in luminescent, they are connected by the thread of the heat. When it is repelled, Ignition of mercury vapor.

In the electronic models, the glow is not used and the gap between the contacts makes itself a high voltage pulse.

The most common sizes of such tubes:

300mm (used in desktop lights)

900mm and 1200mm

The more their length, the brighter the glow.

Alteration of the lamp with electronic rights

If you have a model more modern, without a starter, with an e-choke of the EPR (electronic port-regulating machine), then here will have to be a little tinted with the change in the scheme.

What is inside the lamp to the alteration:

throttle

wires

Contact pads - cartridges on the sides of the case

The throttle is what will need to throw out first. Without it, the whole design will significantly lose in weight. Remove the fastening screws or drill rivets depending on the fastener.

Then disconnect the feed wires. To do this, you may need a screwdriver with a narrow sting.

You can wiring data and simply have a snack by passatages.

The diagram of connecting two lamps is different, everything is much simpler on LED:

The main task that needs to be solved is to submit 220V to different lamp ends. That is, the phase is one conclusion (for example, right), and zero to another (left).

It was previously said that the LED lamp was both pin contacts inside the base, interconnected with a jumper. Therefore, it is impossible here as in luminescent, to submit between them 220V.

To make sure that you use the multimeter. Install it in the measurement mode of the resistance, and touching the measuring ships of the two conclusions to make measurements.

The same values \u200b\u200bshould be displayed on the scoreboard as when the probe is closed with each other, i.e. zero or close to it (taking into account the resistance of the probes themselves).

In the lamp of daylight, between two conclusions on each side, there is resistance of the filament, which, after the voltage of 220V, it is heated and "starts" the lamp.

Without dismantling the cartridges

With dismantling and installing jumpers through their contacts

Without dismantling

The easiest way is without dismantling, but you have to purchase a pair of wago clamps.
I whip in general all the wires suitable for the cartridge at a distance of 10-15mm or more. Next, make them in the same clamp of Vago.

Also do the same with the other side of the lamp. If the WAGO terminal bar does not have enough contacts, you will have to use 2 pcs.

After that, everything that remains is to use the clamp on one side of the phase, and on another zero.

No Wago, just twist the wires under the cap. With this method, you do not need to deal with the existing scheme, with jumpers, climb into contacts of cartridges, etc.

With dismantling of cartridges and installation of jumpers

Another method is more scrupulous, but it does not require any extra costs.

Remove the side covers from the lamp. It is necessary to do it carefully, because In modern products, the latches are made of fragile and breaking plastics.

After that, you can remove the contact cartridges. There are two contacts inside them that are isolated from each other.

Such cartridges may be several varieties:

All of them are equally suitable for lamps with the base G13. There may be springs inside them.

First of all, they are not needed for better contact, and in order for the lamp to fall out of it. Plus, at the expense of the springs, there is some compensation for the size of the length. Since with accuracy to a millimeter, it is not always possible to make the same lamp.

Two wires are suitable for each patron. Most often, they are attached by snaping into special without screw contacts.

Machine them clockwise and counterclockwise, and putting the effort pull out one of them.

As mentioned above, contacts inside the connector are isolated from each other. And dismantling one of the wiring, you actually leave no one contact nest.

All current will now flow through another contact. Of course, everything will work on one, but if you make a lamp for yourself, it makes sense to improve the design slightly, putting a jumper.

Thanks to her, you do not have to catch contact, turning the LED lamp on the sides. Dual connector will provide a reliable connection.

The jumper can be made of unnecessary wires of the lamp itself, which you will definitely remain as a result of the alteration.

Tester check that after mounting the jumper, there is a chain between previously insulated connectors. The same is done with the second mobile contact on the other side of the lamp.

The main thing to ensure that the remaining power wire is no longer a phase, but zero. The rest is whining.

Luminescent lamps for two, four or more lamps

If the lamp you have a two-block, it is best to supply voltage to each connector to each connector.

When installing a simple jumper between two or more cartridges, the design will have a significant drawback.

The second lamp will light up, only under the condition that the first is installed in its place. Remove it, and then the other will go out.

The feeding conductors must converge on the terminal block, where alternately you will be connected:

Modern small-sized table lamp, which is depicted in the photo, with the light source installed in it in the form of a fluorescent U--shaped compact lamp, worked for several years and refused.

According to the owner desktop lampRecently, when the lamp still worked, it was an unpleasant smell from its foundation.

Opening the base of the lamp immediately showed what was the fault. In one of the windings of the ballast device burned insulation. Obviously, from overheating or poor quality of insulation of the winding wire coil, there was a short circuit between the coils, which provoked the heating of the winding to a high temperature and the final output of the ballast device.

I didn't want to mess around with the rewind of the coils, and the finished ballast device for replacement is almost impossible to find, especially since its type has been unknown. Therefore, I decided to remake the table lamp to the modern way - install the LEDs instead of the luminescent lamp, and the ballast device is replaced by an electronic driver, especially since everything was at hand for such a rework.

Replacing fluorescent lamp LEDs

In stock There was a long and narrow circuit board with LEDs from a linear LED lamp.

The driver in it burned out and melted the housing tube from heating. Therefore, the repair lamp was not subject to repair, and the diodes were working. In the width of the plank with LEDs just was well in the reflector of the table lamp.

The luminescent U-shaped tube in the reflector was held at the expense of the plastic retainer and the base. To determine the required length of the LED strip, the lamp with the basement was necessary to delete. In order to get to the luminescent lamp base, it was necessary to unscrew one self-tapping screw and remove the fixing bar.

There was no additional attachment to the base, and only two feed wires remained for its extraction. The wires were stranded sufficient section, so they decided to leave for the supply voltage to LEDs.

After fitting and determining the length of the LED strip using a jigsaw, a piece of the required length was spawned. The LEDs on the bar are located diagonally, therefore it was necessary to cut the jigsaw.

The cut line passed in the right place, the printed tracks connecting the LEDs remained intact.

For fastening the LED strip, the existing fasteners of the reflector reflector lamp were used. The luminescent lamp was fixed with the help of screwed screws to the reflector with a plastic bracket, and the fixing lid was screwed to the plastic rack.

In the bar between the LEDs, the hole was drilled with a diameter of 3 mm under the self-sufficiency and a sample was made for mounting to the rack. After checking the coincidence of the mounting hole with a hole in a short rack, you can start consolidating the plank with LEDs in the reflector.

Before the final installation of a plank with LEDs into the reflector, it is necessary to solder wires to contact sites. One of the wires was short, and it had to be increasing by the soldering method and put on an insulating cambrick to the connection place. Since the wires were the same color, then after the transversion multimeter, the positive wire was marked on both sides with a white Cammbarca ringlets.

I used the finished circuit board with LEDs. But this fee is easy to do and with your own hands. At the same time, if you apply modern monovate LEDs, for example, LED-SMD5730-1, then just 3-5 pcs. You can also, as a light source, instead of individual LEDs, use LED tape pasted on a metal strip. Select the driver in each case will have individually.

Photographs are clearly seen how the printed circuit board is fixed with the LEDs installed on it in the reflector lamp. In order for the Planck to be removed from the bottom of the reflector at a long rack (photo on the left) on it, a Cambrick will be put on a length of equal to height of the right short rack.

Before fixing the LEDs in the reflector, they were tested by connecting to the driver. Consumption current was also measured. The photo shows a reflector with LEDs installed in it. It remains to attach the locking cover, pre-put on the protruding rack of the segment Cambrid for its entire length. Thus, the left edge of the plank will be secured between two cuts of the tubes.

Selection and electrical driver diagram

To supply the power supply voltage to the LEDs, a bipstranuous driver from a faulty LED lamp E27 was applied, assembled according to the classical electrical concept.

In the photo you see the splitting of the wires to the driver. Black wires, coming from LED fees, soldered to positive and negative driver outputs. With the help of blue and yellow wires, the supply voltage of 220 V is supplied to the driver.

Electric schematic scheme Drivers are given above. Condenser C1 with a capacity of 0.8 μF limits the current up to 57 mA. R1 and R3 limit current drops due to the charge of capacitors at the time of the driver on the network. The VD1-VD4 diode bridge rectifies the voltage, and the C2 electrolytic capacitor smoothes the ripples so that the LEDs are not blinked with the network frequency. A safety element is also installed in the driver diagram, most likely it is a barnetter, it smoothes currents and at the same time is a fuse. If you need to reduce or increase the power current of the LEDs, it will be necessary to reduce or increase the capacitor C1 capacitance. Increase C1, you can not even dropping out of the board, having flown in parallel to its conclusions an additional capacitor. With parallel conversion of capacitors, the total capacity is equal to the sum of their tanks, that is, it will increase and the current will also increase.

A direct current providing the optimal brightness of the glow of the used LEDs is 20 mA. LEDs on pCB Connected parallel to three pieces. Consequently, the current required for their work on such an inclusion scheme should be 60 mA. As you know, for long-term operation of the LEDs, it is better that the flowing current is slightly less nominal. Therefore, providing a driver of a value of 57 mA fully satisfies this requirement.

LEDs on the bar turned out to be 60 pieces. The measured voltage drop on each Tiade of LEDs was 2.48 V. Thus, the power consumed by LEDs was 2.48 V × 20 pcs. × 0.057 A \u003d 2.8 W, which is equivalent to the power of the glow of incandescent bulb 25 W. The created illumination of the desk lamp is quite sufficient when using it as a duty light, a night lamp, a computer keyboard backlighting or reading an e-book.

The weight of the driver is insignificant and therefore I did not fix it hard, just grabbed the flexible plastic clamp for one of the racks of fastening the bases of the base. A regular bench lamp switch was involved as a switch. To complete the rework of the desktop lamp, it remains only to bind over three screws to its base, and it will be possible to start conducting running tests.

Tests of the table lamp showed a good result. Due to the possibility of inclination of the rack and turn the reflector in two planes, the table lamp allows you to send the light stream to the desired zone of lighting.

Alteration allowed not only to restore the performance of the desktop lamp without cost, but also turned the morally outdated desk lamp into a modern low-power lamp.

Modern small-sized table lamp, which is depicted in the photo, with the light source installed in it in the form of a fluorescent U--shaped compact lamp, worked for several years and refused.

According to the owner of the desk lamp, recently, when the lamp still worked, it was an unpleasant smell from its foundation.

Replacing fluorescent lamp LEDs

In stock There was a long and narrow circuit board with LEDs from a linear LED lamp.

The cut line passed in the right place, the printed tracks connecting the LEDs remained intact.

Selection and electrical driver diagram

To supply the power supply voltage to the LEDs, a bipstranuous driver from a faulty LED lamp E27 was applied, assembled according to the classical electrical concept.

The driver's electrical circuit diagram is given above. Condenser C1 with a capacity of 0.8 μF limits the current up to 57 mA. R1 and R3 limit current drops due to the charge of capacitors at the time of the driver on the network. The VD1-VD4 diode bridge rectifies the voltage, and the C2 electrolytic capacitor smoothes the ripples so that the LEDs are not blinked with the network frequency. A safety element is also installed in the driver diagram, most likely it is a barnetter, it smoothes currents and at the same time is a fuse. If you need to reduce or increase the power current of the LEDs, it will be necessary to reduce or increase the capacitor C1 capacitance. Increase C1, you can not even dropping out of the board, having flown in parallel to its conclusions an additional capacitor. With parallel conversion of capacitors, the total capacity is equal to the sum of their tanks, that is, it will increase and the current will also increase.

A direct current providing the optimal brightness of the glow of the used LEDs is 20 mA. LEDs on the printed circuit board are connected parallel to three pieces. Consequently, the current required for their work on such an inclusion scheme should be 60 mA. As you know, for long-term operation of the LEDs, it is better that the flowing current is slightly less nominal. Therefore, providing a driver of a value of 57 mA fully satisfies this requirement.

Alteration allowed not only to restore the performance of the desktop lamp without cost, but also turned the morally outdated desk lamp into a modern low-power lamp.

With any work, as well as during the rest, you need a good light. You can buy a lamp, but sometimes it is not suiced. In the store, instead of the finished lamp, you can purchase LED tape. It is relatively inexpensive and cuts into pieces of any length. If you place it in the case or fasten with another way, you will get a homemade lamp with a LED ribbon. Such a lamp can be taken with you to the tent on fishing. In hiking conditions, the LED lamp connects to the automotive battery.

Scope of homemade LED lamps

Homemade LED lamps under the LED ribbon can be used instead of normal:

highlighting the workplace when performing small works in the workshop or garage;
the backlight from the top of the aquarium (if the ribbon is water-proof or in a hermetically case, then the lamp can be lowered into water);
illuminated seedlings or room plants in winter;
night light or table lamp;
illumination of switches and sockets;
lighting computer keyboard;
to replace fluorescent lamps.

On the Internet you can find many other types of landslides and ceiling chandeliers from lED ribbon With photos and videos, as well as reviews of people who collected and enjoyed such lamps.

Types and parameters of LED ribbons

LED Tape Coloring Options

LED ribbons are produced different performance by the type of protectedness. They can be of different brightness and various colors, which is determined by the color temperature - from the warm white (2700K) to the cold (6800K), as well as color or capable of changing their color - RGB tapes. This makes it possible to choose the type of device for specific purposes.

LED tape device

LED tape is a flexible plastic strip with conductive stripes deposited on it. Two are located on the edges and connect to them. The rest connect the LEDs and resistors among themselves. They are located groups - three LEDs connected in series, and a resistor that serves to limit the current flowing through them.

Parameters of LED Ribbon

The strip itself can be cut to the sections, multiple to three LEDs. In these places there are marks indicating the place of cutting and contact pads to which they are soldered or connected using wire connector.

LEDs can be coated with a layer of silicone from one or two sides. This determines the degree of protection against external influences. From the reverse side, a glider is applied to the strip, as on bilateral scotch. With it, the LEDs are attached to the base.

The most common supply voltage is constant, 12V. There are constructions designed to connect to 24V voltage and higher, but these are low-prolonged structures.

Types of used LEDs

LEDs and ribbon resistors are used by SMD series, without conclusions. Production LEDs are used in various sizes, which determines the marking of the tape - 5050 and 3528. These figures show the size of the LED in the tenths of the millimeter

Visual difference 5050 and 3528

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Alexey Bartosh

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The larger size, the higher the brightness and consumed current and power. It also depends on the number of LEDs per meter length.

Accordingly, the labeling of the SMD 5050 tape with a density of 60 LEDs means that 60 SMD 5050 LEDs are installed on the meter.

Controllers, Power Supplies for LED Tapes

Controller and power supply

Since the LED tape is designed for a constant voltage of 12V, the power supply or controller is required to connect.

Important! When you turn on the LED tape in a 220 volt network, it will instantly braid!

Power supplies are made of different power and shapes. From low-power, similar to charging device From tablet to powerful structures in a metal case with built-in coolers.

Power supply unit LED ribbons

Some power supplies are equipped with dimmers and consoles. remote control. For RGB tapes, a RGB controller is needed that allows you to control the color.

There are models with WiFi control, with color-chicken effects, for example, Arilux® AL-LC01.

If there is no special block, you can use:

Any transformer with output voltage 12V. To the exit, you must connect the diode bridge and smoothing capacitor.
Computer power supply both in the computer itself and separately.
If you need 3-6 LEDs, then a capacitor can be used to limit the current, as well as a diode bridge and a capacitor that smoothes the ripples of the glow. Such a scheme is applied in lED lampsinstalled instead of incandescent lamps. Capacitance of the capacitor can be calculated using an online calculator.
Make out of charge of a faulty energy-saving lamp.
Connect sequentially 20 pieces of LED tape and connect through the diode bridge and smoothing capacitor to the 220V network.

Preparation of materials and details

Creating a lamp with your own hands

Before starting work, you need to determine the required amount and brightness of the LED strip, as well as the power of the power supply.

First of all, you need to determine the length. For lamps used in different places Need:

night light and lighting switches and outlets - cut in three LEDs;
aquarium backlight - by the length of the wall;
the backlight of the bed with a seedler - several pieces, length equal to the length of the bed;
computer keyboard - keyboard length;
to replace the fluorescent lamp, several pieces are needed, length equal to the length of the lamp.

The brightness of the tape, the size and density of the LEDs is determined on the basis of specific conditions.

The power of the power supply must be no less than the power of the LED lamp, and, preferably, 20% more. This is necessary for more reliable operation of the block.

In addition, you will need wires, a shrink tube to isolate the connection location, a soldering iron with a tin and a rosin or connector for connecting.

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Alexey Bartosh

Specialist in repair, maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.

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Attention! We can not solder ribbon acid! The acid pairs are oxidized and destroyed wires, and can also lead to short circuit.

If the lamp is used in the aquarium for the inner backlight, then the transparent tube and silicone sealant should be needed to ensure the tightness of the design. After the development of the structure of the future lamp and the preparation of all tools and materials is collected by the lamp itself.

Sometimes the entire assembly process is to stick the ribbon on the base, for example, when highlighting the keyboard located on the retractable shelf under the table.

In other cases, the lamp must be made or remake the existing one.

Features and stages of installation work

Installation and connection of the lamp from the LED tape has a number of features:

The power supply must be located as close as possible to the LEDs. The longer the wire, the greater the loss of tension in them, which leads to the loss of the brightness of the lamp.
It is advisable to isolate the LEDs from the base if it is metallic.
When the device is connected directly from the 220V network (through the capacitor), use only a tape covered with silicone on both sides.

Caution! On such a tape is present high voltageSo all manipulations with it are made in the disconnected state.

What to do if there is no finished LED tape

If there is no ready-made LED tape, then it can be done independently.

To do this, the required amount of LEDs must be connected sequentially and connect to them a current-limiting resistance. You can collect such a design on a hetinax or textolite strip, where holes are drilled for mounting the LEDs. Such a device can be collected on any required voltage and the number of LEDs.