How to repair the right button of a wired mouse. How to fix a computer mouse without professional knowledge and experience? If the mouse wheel does not work well

Computer mice produced at the moment have good reliability. They can work for several years without being repaired. However, over time, they refuse to work. You have to buy a new mouse or repair the old one yourself. Since in the workshop they take a lot of money for this.

Often, the breakdown of the mouse is caused by the rubbing of the wire at the exit from the case or by poor contact that occurs in the mouse buttons. Often, this is the left key, as it is used most often. To repair the mouse, you will have to disassemble it.

How to disassemble a computer mouse

The first step is to unscrew the mounting screws, they are located on the underside. There may be several of them, but almost always it is one screw. This mouse model secures the case with one screw.

If the screw cannot be found, then it is covered with a label. Press down on the label, if it flexes, the screw is located underneath. To disassemble this mouse, I had to partially peel off the sticker.

TECH X-701 is secured with two screws. One of them is under the label. When an attempt was made to peel off the label, it began to tear. I had to find the screw and unscrew it without removing the stickers. In the photo, the location is shown with a blue circle.

If there are no screws under the sticker, then they are hidden behind the foot pads. They should be peeled off by prying with a knife. After the mouse is repaired, the foot pads should be returned to their place. If this is not done, the mouse will not slide well on the mat.

After all the actions, the cover of the mouse is removed, on which the buttons are located.

Most often, the PCB is not fixed in the mouse case. It simply fits over the plastic rods. If, when you try to remove the board, it does not give in, then you should look for the screws. This model of mouse fixes two elements at once with a screw: the case and the board.

The board is removed by prying it from below, while removing the wheel axle from the clips.

Examine the mouse carefully before disassembling, remember the location of the parts. Note the wheel ratchet spring, if any. It resembles the spring of a clothespin, only the size is smaller. If you do not like the rotation of the wheel, bend the ends of this spring. Then the wheel will rotate softer due to the decrease in pressure.

Make sure that when disassembling, your fingers do not touch the optical prism and optical elements. If this happens, do not use any detergent. There are special wipes for removing greasy stains. If not available, wipe the optics with a dry cloth.

How to repair a frayed mouse wire

If, while working at the computer, you began to observe the unauthorized movement of the cursor or freeze, the reason for this may be a wire breakage. It's easy to check. Press the wire against the body of the mouse and make a movement. If the cursor moves along the specified axis, it's all in the conductor.

If damage is noticed at the point where the wire exits from the mouse, the reason for the breakdown of the mouse is in it. Here is one example of a breakdown. The photo clearly shows that the outer sheath of the wire is damaged. Some guides are simply frayed. This mouse needs to be repaired.

If you have the skill to work with a soldering iron, it will not be difficult to repair the mouse. It is enough to remove the damaged section of the wire, prepare new soldering ends and solder them. All that remains is to connect the wire to the printed circuit board.

How to repair a frayed mouse wire by soldering

There are two types of wire connecting the mouse to the connector: tinsel and ordinary stranded. Tinsel is more elastic and softer wire. It resists bending caused by using a mouse. Accordingly, it lasts longer.

The wire is laid along the mouse body and connected to the printed circuit board. There are two options for attaching this wire. By means of a detachable connection and by pressing into the board socket. The photo shows the block that was soldered from the printed circuit board. The conductors are pressed into it.

In order not to forget the location of the wires in the board, it is better to take a photo. Then the connector or block is soldered from the board. In this case, it is better not to disconnect the wires. The color scheme of the wires may vary. Since there is no single standard, manufacturers choose wires at their discretion.

I repaired different mice and all the wires had a different color. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the repair of the mouse in the field of its warranty period is not provided. After the old wires have been soldered from the board, it is necessary to remove the remnants of the solder. To do this, warm it up with a soldering iron and, using a thin match or a toothpick, squeeze the solder out of the hole. Places for new guides have been prepared.

Before you start soldering, you need to prepare the wires. We cut off a bad piece of wire to a length of 15-20 mm. We remove the insulation, tin the ends with solder. So that the tinned edges have a round shape, the wires should be laid on a wooden stand and tinned, rotating. If this is not done, the wires will not pass through the holes in the PCB. Then we insert them into the board and solder them according to the color coding.

Tinsel conductors do not lend themselves to tinning with rosin flux. This is because they are insulated with varnish. In this case, acid cannot be used, after a while it will destroy the conductor. It is best to use an aspirin tablet.

There are times when the printed circuit board has a small diameter of the holes for the wires. In this case, the conductors can be soldered to the contact pads. There will be no physical stress on the wire, so this type of connection will be quite rigid.

Everything, you can return the printed circuit board to its place. We lay the wire and fasten the board with screws. Make sure that the wire does not touch moving parts, is not laid under the pushbutton pushers, and is not crushed by the body. Before you close the case with the lid, make sure that excess dirt and hairs are removed. You can use the mouse.

How to repair a frayed mouse wire by twisting

There is no way more reliable soldering for repairing the mouse wire. However, not everyone has a soldering iron and not everyone can solder. If you do not own a soldering iron, you can repair the wires by twisting. To do this, you need to disassemble the mouse and cut off the section of the wire with the defect.

Using a sharp knife blade, cut the outer insulation at both ends of the wire. About 5-6 cm.

The length of the conductor must be selected in such a way that when the wire is twisted, the connection points are shifted by 5-8 mm relative to each other. The ends of the insulation must be stripped.

Conductors of the same color are twisted together.

The twists must be bent along the wires. Then tuck them into the previously cut insulation. Please note that the places of the twists do not touch each other.

A second piece of insulation must be applied to the resulting connection.

This will increase mechanical protection and protection against contact with parts on the mouse board.

All that remains is to insert the wire connector into the connector on the PCB. Then carefully lay the wire along the mouse body.

The mouse is covered with a top cover, the screws are screwed. You can use the mouse for its intended purpose. Wires connected in this way will last one more time. It happens that the mouse connector is located at a distance.

And the length of the wire is not enough to connect the mouse. Then, according to the same scheme, we build up the missing piece of wire. It can be taken from an old mouse. The wires can be color-coded differently, as there is no single standard. Therefore, before we twist the wires, ring them. To increase the life of the mouse, make sure that the wires do not bend at the exit from the case.

If the mouse wheel does not work well

Sometimes, when you rotate the wheel on the mouse, you notice that the page does not scroll at all, or it happens in jerks. The reason for this may be the ingress of dust and hair between the photodetector of the optocoupler and the photosensor of the wheel. So how does dirt get into the mouse? Through the gaps between the body and the wheel. Since there is a lubricant inside that improves sliding, foreign objects stick to it.

By removing hair and dust, the caster works like new.

How to replace a microswitch

If you find that nothing happens when you press the mouse keys, you should start repairing. The reason for this may be the failure of their microswitch or wear of the button, formed at the point of contact with the pusher.

To find out the reason, you need to disassemble the mouse and examine it. If there is a slight indentation, about 1 mm, this may be the case. Test the pushbutton pushers by pressing them. A clear, clear click should form. If this is not the case, it is most likely the switch itself.

This is checked as follows: the disassembled mouse is connected to the computer, and by pressing the pushers, it is checked. If everything works, you need to fuse the missing piece of plastic onto the button, or pour a drop of epoxy resin. If the breakdown lies in the microswitch, it will have to be replaced.

It's easier to replace the entire switch than to mess around with re-soldering the wires. Most mice use a standard microswitch. It works according to the following principle. 3 brass plates with a complex shape are pressed into the body, made of plastic. Their ends have pins for sealing into the board.

The plate on the left in the photo is the middle point of the switch. A plate with a "P" -shaped hole is attached to it by means of a spacer. This plate is attached with the left side to the tab of the left plate on the left side. The right side is bent by an arc, it engages with it on the protrusion located on the right on the left contact plate.

The flat thin plate is made in such a way that its right end is pushed upwards. Due to this, contact is created with the thick right plate, bent into the shape of the letter "L". When you press the key, the pusher transmits the force to the thin plate. Consequently, it goes down, moving away from the upper contact, and touches the lower one. The pin of this contact is located in the middle of the button.

After you release the button, the thin plate returns to its original position, due to which the outer contacts of the switch are connected. It turns out that when the button is pressed, the contacts are connected to each other. Moreover, this happens with the middle and left contacts. When the button is released, the outermost contacts are connected.

Since metal tends to accumulate fatigue, the spring deforms and loses its properties. This is why the button refuses to work. Maybe the microswitch can be repaired.

Disassemble, remove the spring and straighten it. But I have not had to repair the switch this way. If you have an old ballpoint mouse, disassemble it and unsolder the microswitch.

It is better to solder the one that is located under the wheel. It is used the least often and is often serviceable. If the wheel is missing, grab the right button switch. Just pay attention to how it is installed. The pins on the switch are located symmetrically to each other, it is easy to make a mistake.

If the old mouse is missing, swap the switches. Replace the left button with the switch from the wheel and vice versa. If the situation is extremely hopeless, there is nothing to do but repair the microswitch.

Dear visitors!!!

Our modern life cannot be imagined without a computer, using the Internet we communicate with our friends and relatives. When we start working at a computer, sometimes we have to fix minor breakdowns, namely:

  • clogged laptop or computer fan,
  • clogging of a computer mouse,

- with the help of which it becomes impossible to control the screen (laptop, computer). The topic contains personal photographs concerning the malfunction of a computer mouse - what I want to acquaint you with.

Computer mouse repair

To make a computer mouse, which after a certain time stopped working, the malfunction here may be hidden in the simplest reason - debris.

The contamination of this accessory occurs as a result of its use. When working at a computer, we often have to move the computer mouse and gradually it becomes clogged with dust, hair and other small particles. Of course, in order to repair a computer mouse, it must be disassembled.

How to disassemble a computer mouse

We unscrew the bolts (photo 1), carefully follow the sequence of disassembling the computer mouse.


We do not carry out any diagnostics for the electronic elements above the circuit (diagnostics are carried out as a last resort). In two photographs (photo 2), in an enlarged plan, a wheel with an axis is visible, transmitting a signal of its rotation to the circuit. In the right photo, small fragments of hair, lint and dust can be seen at the two ends of the wheel axle. With a cotton swab, carefully remove small fragments of lint and dust, if any specks are removed poorly, tweezers are used.

After the procedure for removing dust and small fragments has been carried out, the computer mouse is assembled in reverse order.

Contact cleaner

It will not be superfluous to wipe the contacts of the connector connected to the socket of a computer or laptop with the same cotton swab. In addition to the connector, you also need to clean the connector pins. For stripping contacts (connector and socket), It is advisable to slightly moisten a cotton swab with alcohol... This regulation must be carried out carefully so as not to violate the electronic elements of the circuit itself. In the event that you find a cable break in any area (between the connector and the mouse itself), soldering is used. This cable can have five wires. In my practice, the malfunction of a computer mouse was exactly the reason that I described. After eliminating the malfunction of the computer mouse, he was satisfied with his work, the computer mouse again became controllable.

That's all for now. Follow the rubric.

Computer mice produced at the moment have good reliability. They can work for several years without being repaired. However, over time, they refuse to work. You have to buy a new mouse or repair the old one yourself. Since in the workshop they take a lot of money for this.

Often, the breakdown of the mouse is caused by the rubbing of the wire at the exit from the case or by poor contact that occurs in the mouse buttons. Often, this is the left key, as it is used most often. To repair the mouse, you will have to disassemble it.

How to disassemble a computer mouse

The first step is to unscrew the mounting screws, they are located on the underside. There may be several of them, but almost always it is one screw. This mouse model secures the case with one screw.

If the screw cannot be found, then it is covered with a label. Press down on the label, if it flexes, the screw is located underneath. To disassemble this mouse, I had to partially peel off the sticker.

TECH X-701 is secured with two screws. One of them is under the label. When an attempt was made to peel off the label, it began to tear. I had to find the screw and unscrew it without removing the stickers. In the photo, the location is shown with a blue circle.

If there are no screws under the sticker, then they are hidden behind the foot pads. They should be peeled off by prying with a knife. After the mouse is repaired, the foot pads should be returned to their place. If this is not done, the mouse will not slide well on the mat.

After all the actions, the cover of the mouse is removed, on which the buttons are located.

Most often, the PCB is not fixed in the mouse case. It simply fits over the plastic rods. If, when you try to remove the board, it does not give in, then you should look for the screws. This model of mouse fixes two elements at once with a screw: the case and the board.

The board is removed by prying it from below, while removing the wheel axle from the clips.

Examine the mouse carefully before disassembling, remember the location of the parts. Note the wheel ratchet spring, if any. It resembles the spring of a clothespin, only the size is smaller. If you do not like the rotation of the wheel, bend the ends of this spring. Then the wheel will rotate softer due to the decrease in pressure.

Make sure that when disassembling, your fingers do not touch the optical prism and optical elements. If this happens, do not use any detergent. There are special wipes for removing greasy stains. If not available, wipe the optics with a dry cloth.

How to repair a frayed mouse wire

If, while working at the computer, you began to observe the unauthorized movement of the cursor or freeze, the reason for this may be a wire breakage. It's easy to check. Press the wire against the body of the mouse and make a movement. If the cursor moves along the specified axis, it's all in the conductor.

If damage is noticed at the point where the wire exits from the mouse, the reason for the breakdown of the mouse is in it. Here is one example of a breakdown. The photo clearly shows that the outer sheath of the wire is damaged. Some guides are simply frayed. This mouse needs to be repaired.

If you have the skill to work with a soldering iron, it will not be difficult to repair the mouse. It is enough to remove the damaged section of the wire, prepare new soldering ends and solder them. All that remains is to connect the wire to the printed circuit board.

How to repair a frayed mouse wire by soldering

There are two types of wire connecting the mouse to the connector: tinsel and ordinary stranded. Tinsel is more elastic and softer wire. It resists bending caused by using a mouse. Accordingly, it lasts longer.

The wire is laid along the mouse body and connected to the printed circuit board. There are two options for attaching this wire. By means of a detachable connection and by pressing into the board socket. The photo shows the block that was soldered from the printed circuit board. The conductors are pressed into it.

In order not to forget the location of the wires in the board, it is better to take a photo. Then the connector or block is soldered from the board. In this case, it is better not to disconnect the wires. The color scheme of the wires may vary. Since there is no single standard, manufacturers choose wires at their discretion.

I repaired different mice and all the wires had a different color. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the repair of the mouse in the field of its warranty period is not provided. After the old wires have been soldered from the board, it is necessary to remove the remnants of the solder. To do this, warm it up with a soldering iron and, using a thin match or a toothpick, squeeze the solder out of the hole. Places for new guides have been prepared.

Before you start soldering, you need to prepare the wires. We cut off a bad piece of wire to a length of 15-20 mm. We remove the insulation, tin the ends with solder. So that the tinned edges have a round shape, the wires should be laid on a wooden stand and tinned, rotating. If this is not done, the wires will not pass through the holes in the PCB. Then we insert them into the board and solder them according to the color coding.

Tinsel conductors do not lend themselves to tinning with rosin flux. This is because they are insulated with varnish. In this case, acid cannot be used, after a while it will destroy the conductor. It is best to use an aspirin tablet.

There are times when the printed circuit board has a small diameter of the holes for the wires. In this case, the conductors can be soldered to the contact pads. There will be no physical stress on the wire, so this type of connection will be quite rigid.

Everything, you can return the printed circuit board to its place. We lay the wire and fasten the board with screws. Make sure that the wire does not touch moving parts, is not laid under the pushbutton pushers, and is not crushed by the body. Before you close the case with the lid, make sure that excess dirt and hairs are removed. You can use the mouse.

How to repair a frayed mouse wire by twisting

There is no way more reliable soldering for repairing the mouse wire. However, not everyone has a soldering iron and not everyone can solder. If you do not own a soldering iron, you can repair the wires by twisting. To do this, you need to disassemble the mouse and cut off the section of the wire with the defect.

Using a sharp knife blade, cut the outer insulation at both ends of the wire. About 5-6 cm.

The length of the conductor must be selected in such a way that when the wire is twisted, the connection points are shifted by 5-8 mm relative to each other. The ends of the insulation must be stripped.

Conductors of the same color are twisted together.

The twists must be bent along the wires. Then tuck them into the previously cut insulation. Please note that the places of the twists do not touch each other.

A second piece of insulation must be applied to the resulting connection.

This will increase mechanical protection and protection against contact with parts on the mouse board.

All that remains is to insert the wire connector into the connector on the PCB. Then carefully lay the wire along the mouse body.

The mouse is covered with a top cover, the screws are screwed. You can use the mouse for its intended purpose. Wires connected in this way will last one more time. It happens that the mouse connector is located at a distance.

And the length of the wire is not enough to connect the mouse. Then, according to the same scheme, we build up the missing piece of wire. It can be taken from an old mouse. The wires can be color-coded differently, as there is no single standard. Therefore, before we twist the wires, ring them. To increase the life of the mouse, make sure that the wires do not bend at the exit from the case.

If the mouse wheel does not work well

Sometimes, when you rotate the wheel on the mouse, you notice that the page does not scroll at all, or it happens in jerks. The reason for this may be the ingress of dust and hair between the photodetector of the optocoupler and the photosensor of the wheel. So how does dirt get into the mouse? Through the gaps between the body and the wheel. Since there is a lubricant inside that improves sliding, foreign objects stick to it.

By removing hair and dust, the caster works like new.

How to replace a microswitch

If you find that nothing happens when you press the mouse keys, you should start repairing. The reason for this may be the failure of their microswitch or wear of the button, formed at the point of contact with the pusher.

To find out the reason, you need to disassemble the mouse and examine it. If there is a slight indentation, about 1 mm, this may be the case. Test the pushbutton pushers by pressing them. A clear, clear click should form. If this is not the case, it is most likely the switch itself.

This is checked as follows: the disassembled mouse is connected to the computer, and by pressing the pushers, it is checked. If everything works, you need to fuse the missing piece of plastic onto the button, or pour a drop of epoxy resin. If the breakdown lies in the microswitch, it will have to be replaced.

It's easier to replace the entire switch than to mess around with re-soldering the wires. Most mice use a standard microswitch. It works according to the following principle. 3 brass plates with a complex shape are pressed into the body, made of plastic. Their ends have pins for sealing into the board.

The plate on the left in the photo is the middle point of the switch. A plate with a "P" -shaped hole is attached to it by means of a spacer. This plate is attached with the left side to the tab of the left plate on the left side. The right side is bent by an arc, it engages with it on the protrusion located on the right on the left contact plate.

The flat thin plate is made in such a way that its right end is pushed upwards. Due to this, contact is created with the thick right plate, bent into the shape of the letter "L". When you press the key, the pusher transmits the force to the thin plate. Consequently, it goes down, moving away from the upper contact, and touches the lower one. The pin of this contact is located in the middle of the button.

After you release the button, the thin plate returns to its original position, due to which the outer contacts of the switch are connected. It turns out that when the button is pressed, the contacts are connected to each other. Moreover, this happens with the middle and left contacts. When the button is released, the outermost contacts are connected.

Since metal tends to accumulate fatigue, the spring deforms and loses its properties. This is why the button refuses to work. Maybe the microswitch can be repaired.

Disassemble, remove the spring and straighten it. But I have not had to repair the switch this way. If you have an old ballpoint mouse, disassemble it and unsolder the microswitch.

It is better to solder the one that is located under the wheel. It is used the least often and is often serviceable. If the wheel is missing, grab the right button switch. Just pay attention to how it is installed. The pins on the switch are located symmetrically to each other, it is easy to make a mistake.

If the old mouse is missing, swap the switches. Replace the left button with the switch from the wheel and vice versa. If the situation is extremely hopeless, there is nothing to do but repair the microswitch.

Good day, dear readers!

The mouse and keyboard are among the most used peripherals. That is why these devices, especially mice, quickly have all kinds of problems in operation. This can be bad button response, double-clicking the buttons with a single click, problems with the scroll wheel (jerky), problems with the system detecting the device. Most of the problems are caused by mechanical wear and the ingress of dirt inside the mouse case.
If, when you press the mouse buttons, they do not work well or a double click is triggered, then the likely reason lies precisely in mechanical wear. All elements of the manipulator are made of plastic and with frequent use, they are quickly erased, and wear appears. When the mouse button is pressed, it becomes insufficient for the button to work reliably.

1. Mouse button does not work

but) Wear is easy to detect. It is necessary to disassemble the mouse, for this it is enough to unscrew one or two screws from its bottom side. Mouse buttons can have different designs, but most of them are the plastic part of the top cover (or a separate element), which, through a plastic lever, acts on the button soldered on the printed circuit board. It is on this plastic lever that the production appears. To restore the functionality of the mouse, you must clean the surface of the lever with a file or sandpaper, providing a flat surface. Also pay attention to the reliability of the PCB fastening and the quality of the button soldering points.

b) We will not go far from this problem and we will analyze in more detail the quality of the button itself, or in other words the mikrika, if the problem lies in the mikrika itself, then we can simply solder it and any old mouse can become a donor or purchase it in a special store, if such available nearby. To re-solder the microswitch, heat the legs of the microswitch and pry the switch with a knife (or pulling your fingers from the back side), you need to do this simultaneously and quickly, ( when soldering, it is advisable not to overheat the button). After soldering on the board, it is necessary to clean the holes from the old solder so that you can easily insert and solder the working mikrik.

in) Let's consider an option in which we would do without a soldering iron. To do this, we need to disassemble the button, it is not difficult to do this. Pry off the cover with a thin screwdriver or needle, first from one side, then from the other, remove the cover. After removing from the cover, a button will fall out, which it is desirable not to lose. The problem is that over time, the tongue on the plate begins to bend, we need to bend it slightly. Putting the button together and testing the mouse for performance.


2. The mouse wheel does not work (moves in jerks)

To solve this problem, of course, we need to disassemble the mouse, this time we will work with a wireless manipulator. And so we unscrew the screws on the bottom of the mouse and remove the upper part of it, then unscrew all the screws that attach the board to the bottom of the mouse case. Now that the board is unscrewed, lift it up and carefully pull the wheel out of the scroll sensor. So we got to the faulty item.

The reasons for the malfunction may be as follows, the mouse scrolling mechanism loosened up, with such a malfunction, we could simply press four antennae with pliers and it would seem that everything would be repaired, but with such a repair, at best, your mouse would have lived for another month. Dirty contacts of the rotating mechanism could also be the cause of the malfunction. So the next thing we need to do is disassemble the scroll sensor. We bend back the four antennae that hold the insides of the sensitive element

and peel off the part that is soldered into the board with three legs

after which we take out the drum, inside which there are contacts.

That's it, the disassembly is over, now all that remains is to remove and reassemble. We take a cotton swab, moisten it in some alcoholic liquid and wipe the contact surface. Now, in the reverse order, we assemble the entire mechanism back. After assembly, it is necessary to strengthen the mouse scrolling mechanism, for this you need to install a U-shaped bracket from a metal plate.

We collect the mouse and see the result of our labors.

3. Pproblems with identifying the device by the system

Software errors in the manipulator operation are also possible. You should first check the operation of the mouse on another computer or laptop, if possible, if errors also appear, then most likely the reason is in the hardware of the manipulator. Software errors are possible, most likely with game controllers that require the installation of additional drivers or software, you can also update drivers or hardware configuration in Device Manager. With standard devices, software problems are very rare. But, nevertheless, if you have problems, try to find and install a suitable driver. Also check that the USB or PS / 2 port controller is working properly. You may need to update your motherboard driver to fix the problem.

4 In addition to everything, there are such malfunctions

1. Also, the reason for the poor performance of the buttons and the scroll wheel is ordinary dust, or rather, the one that has accumulated inside the mouse case. After a few months of operation, a lot of dust, lint, hair and other dirt accumulates in the mouse. All this is reflected in the operation of the scroll wheel. The wheel becomes stiff and scrolling may be uneven. Disassemble the arm and carefully remove all dust and other dirt particles. The plastic case of the mouse can be wiped with wet wipes or rinsed in warm water. Avoid getting moisture on the elements of the printed circuit board, and if this happens, do not use the mouse until the moisture is completely dry (preferably within a day).

2. Another cause of problems with the mouse could be a broken wire. Due to the vigorous use of the manipulator, thin wiring breaks often occur at the place where it is soldered to the mouse board or on the connector. In this case, you should also disassemble the mouse and see where the wires are soldered, and also check the connector. If a wire break or a sealed connector leg is detected, the malfunction should be eliminated. If you do not have sufficient skills, then contact a specialist.

3. The next problem with the mouse may lie in the connector connecting the device to the computer. Modern pointing devices are connected via the USB connector, but there are still devices for connection via the PS / 2 port on the market. It is this port that often causes various malfunctions. It's all about unreliable contacts and the ability of the thin pins of the connector to bend and break off easily. If the contacts are crumpled, they should be carefully aligned. In this case, you should be careful not to damage the adjacent contacts. With the USB connector, problems with poor contact are less common and manifests itself when the device is connected to a heavily dirty port.

Other errors in the operation of the mouse are probably related to the release of the radio elements of the device, and in this case it is problematic to fix the mouse on your own without special equipment. All that remains is to purchase a new mouse.

Good luck to everyone and see you again.


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